I land in Tokyo on Nov 7 for the opening act, a few city days of izakaya alleys, neighborhood wandering and old-school sento (I'll have a couple of busy daytime commitments, evenings free). Then on Nov 12 the real pilgrimage begins, heading west along Japan's hot-spring trail: three nights in Kusatsu, soaking in sulfur baths below the steaming yubatake; two nights at a lone riverside ryokan deep in the Okuhida mountains, private open-air baths, maybe the first snow; then three nights in Kinosaki, Japan's most atmospheric onsen town, just as snow-crab season opens — wandering the seven public baths in yukata by lantern light, crab feasts every night. I close with a night in Osaka before flying out Nov 22.